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Guides Damping

LSC, HSC and rebound: what the clicks actually do

A plain-language map of every damping dial on your fork and shock, and when to reach for each one.

A typical trail tune
Low-speed compression 6clk
High-speed compression 3clk
Rebound 8clk

Air pressure sets where your suspension sits; damping controls how fast it moves. The clicks do not change your travel or your sag, they change the speed at which the suspension compresses and returns. Once your sag is right, the dials are where you tailor the bike to your terrain and style.

It is about shaft speed, not bump size

The single idea that unlocks damping: circuits are split by how fast the suspension shaft moves, not by how big the bump looks. A square-edged root hit at low speed and a fast g-out both move the shaft, but at very different rates.

  • Low-speed events: braking dive, pumping, berms, weight shifts, gentle rollers.
  • High-speed events: square edges, rock gardens, fast successive hits, hard landings.
Tuner tip

Change one circuit at a time and move in 2–3 click steps. Single clicks are hard to feel on the trail and you will lose track of your baseline.

The four circuits, in order of impact

Adjuster Controls Add clicks (firmer) Remove clicks (softer)
Rebound Return speed Calmer, more composed Livelier, can buck
Low-speed comp (LSC) Support, dive More platform, holds high Plusher, more dive
High-speed comp (HSC) Big-hit harshness Firmer on square edges More forgiving, blows through
Volume spacers End-stroke ramp Harder to bottom Easier full travel

Set rebound first

Rebound is the click most riders feel immediately and the one most often run too slow. Too fast and the bike feels nervous and bucks you off the back; too slow and it packs down through repeated hits, riding deeper and deeper in its travel until it feels harsh.

Start from fully open

Wind the rebound adjuster all the way to the fast/open end, then count back to roughly the middle of the range.

Curb test the rear

Roll off a curb and watch the shock. It should return without kicking your hips up. One overshoot and settle is ideal.

Match the front

Repeat off the curb for the fork. The front should recover slightly faster than the rear so the bike does not pitch forward.

Log your clicks

Record front and rear rebound in Dialed so you can return to a known-good baseline after any experiment.

Watch out

Rebound that is too slow is the most common cause of mid-run fatigue and a vague, harsh feeling deep in the rough. If the bike gets worse the longer the descent, open rebound a few clicks before touching compression.

Common questions

On simpler dampers the single compression knob is usually low-speed (LSC), sometimes with a firm/climb mode at one end. High-speed is fixed internally. Tune it for support and let air pressure and tokens handle big hits.
Not numerically: the click counts are not comparable across different dampers. Balance by feel. If the bike dives under braking, add LSC to the fork; if the rear wallows in berms, add LSC to the shock.
No. Damping only affects movement speed. If your ride height feels wrong, that is an air pressure (sag) job, not a clicks job.
Early access

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