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Guides Suspension basics

Dialing in your sag, the right way

Sag is the single most important number in your setup, and the one most riders get wrong. Here is how to set it in ten minutes, and why it matters more than any click.

What good sag looks like
Front sag (trail) 18%
Rear sag (trail) 30%
Rider weight 79kg

Sag is how much your suspension sinks under your bodyweight when you sit on the bike in riding position. It sets where in the travel you ride, and everything else, from grip to bottom-out resistance, follows from it. Get sag right and the clicks become fine-tuning. Get it wrong and no amount of clicking will save you.

Why sag comes first

Compression and rebound damping control how fast the suspension moves. But air pressure sets where it sits, and that is what sag measures. Two riders on the same bike with the same clicks but different sag are riding two completely different bikes.

  • Too little sag (too much pressure): harsh, skips over bumps, no grip in corners.
  • Too much sag (too little pressure): wallowy, blows through travel, vague on the pedals.
  • Correct sag: supported but supple, the bike tracks the ground.

As a starting point most trail bikes want roughly 30% rear and 15–20% front. Your setup sheet stores these per bike so you never start from scratch.

Tuner tip

Always set sag in full riding kit: pack, shoes, helmet. A loaded pack can shift your rear sag by 3–4%, which is a meaningful chunk of travel.

Setting it in ten minutes

Reset the o-ring

Slide the rubber o-ring on your fork stanchion and shock shaft down against the seal. No o-ring? A zip-tie works.

Get into position

Lean against a wall, clip in, and settle into a neutral attack position. Bounce gently once, then hold still.

Step off carefully

Dismount without compressing the suspension further. The o-ring now marks your sag.

Measure & adjust

Measure the exposed stanchion against total travel. Add air to reduce sag, release to increase it, then log it in Dialed.

"If a customer only does one thing, I tell them to set their sag. It fixes more problems than any tune I can sell them."

— A suspension tuner we work with

Sag targets by discipline

Starting points, not gospel. Heavier or more aggressive riders trend toward the firmer end of each range.

Discipline Front sag Rear sag Feel
XC / marathon 12–15% 25% Firm, efficient
Trail 15–20% 30% Balanced
Enduro 18–22% 30–33% Planted, plush
Downhill 20–25% 33–38% Maximum grip

Too firm vs. too soft

Too little sag

  • Deflects off roots and rocks
  • Hands and feet get hammered
  • Front washes in flat corners

Dialed sag

  • Tracks the ground in the rough
  • Grip on tap, mid-corner
  • Travel left for the big hits
Watch out

Sag changes as your air spring loses pressure over time. Re-check it every few rides, and always after a service. Log it in Dialed so you always know what you ran last.

Common questions

The fork sticker is a rough starting point based on rider weight only: it ignores your kit, riding style and terrain. Use it to get in the ballpark, then set sag properly and save the result.
Set the rear first: it carries most of your weight and defines the bike's geometry under load. Then balance the front to it.
Barely. Volume spacers affect the end of the stroke (bottom-out resistance), not the initial sag point. Set sag first, then add tokens if you are using full travel too easily.
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Put this guide to work.

Save your settings to every bike with Dialed, so you always know what you ran last.